This time of year is quite magical in Sweden. As Christmas approaches, the celebrations start on 13 December with the festival of Saint Lucia. In the Georgian calendar the date coincided with the shortest day of the year and traditional stories suggest that Lucia was the bringer of light into the midwinter darkness. The celebration is a mixing of pre Christian Scandinavian folklore and Germanic Lutheran religious traditions. The day is observed widely across Sweden and in communities with a large Swedish population such as London, New York and other parts of the USA. The festival is also celebrated in other Scandinavian countries but its origins are truly Swedish.

Traditionally the day commences with a breakfast of golden coloured saffron buns (Lussekatter), often made in the shape of a cat with raisins for eyes. Later in the day, there is a candle lit procession of girls depicting Lucia, dressed in white robes, carrying candles, singing the haunting hymn of Sainta Lucia. The procession is lead by a girl wearing a red sash over her white robe, along with a crown of burning candles. This is a special day and an important part of the winter celebrations leading up to Christmas.

At this time of year, Swedes enjoy the chance to get together, share food and warm ourselves with a glass of hot glögg. Many people have their own family recipes for glögg and there are always plenty of invitations to join friends to try their spiced, warm wine. Here’s a favourite recipe that Peter recommends. It’s sure to warm you up and put you in the festive spirit.

Glögg

• 5 green cardamom pods, slightly crushed
• 2 cloves
• 3cm piece of cinnamon stick
• 1 teaspoon dried orange peel
• 2 tablespoons brown sugar
• 75ml Madeira or port
• 1 bottle good-quality red wine such as burgundy

Put all the ingredients in a pan (not aluminum) and slowly heat. Do not allow to boil. Strain and drink while still warm. For a more intense flavour leave the spices to infuse for several hours or overnight then strain and gently reheat when ready to drink. Serve in a heatproof bowl, with mugs or glasses and a large ladle.

The main Christmas celebration happens in Sweden on Christmas Eve. Many Swedes visit church in the afternoon and then families and friends come together in the early evening to feast on a traditional Christmas Smörgåsbord. This is similar in some ways to the food served in Britain on Boxing Day with a buffet of gravadlax, smoked salmon, baked hams and salads. Other traditional foods which are less familiar here in Britain over Christmas include a wide range of pickled and cured herring, smoked eel, meatballs, smoked sausages or roasted pork ribs. Hot and cold potato dishes are an important part of the feast as are a wide variety of breads from dense rye to lighter crispbreads. After dinner we exchange presents and children are allowed to stay up late to enjoy the celebrations. Christmas Day is a much quieter day with simpler food and a chance to spend time outdoors enjoying the few hours of daylight, perhaps with a walk followed by another glass of warming glögg.

At Peter’s Yard, we look forward to welcoming you in the run up to Christmas. We will be serving our own hand-baked Lussekatter to celebrate Saint Lucia at our Edinburgh coffee house and if you’d like to try your hand at making Lussekatter yourself then email wendy@petersyard.com for Jan Hedh’s recipe from his forthcoming book Swedish Breads and Pastries.